Just before we left, I barely remembered that I hadn't got shots of the chalets. Oh well, even in the dark, I clicked.
The EGAT Chalet which I stayed in.
The other EGAT chalet
2nd Checkpoint at KM37The lure of this spot were recent sightings of the much sought-after Purple and Green Cochoas, reported in a bird log book at Mr Deang's place. It was a little too early when we arrived as the trail was still cloaked in shadows, so we decided to hang around outside for a little while. Our reward - a small yet very active flock of Grey-cheeked Fulvettas which were foraging on small berries right where the vans were parked. My flash wasn't strong enough as my Fresnel lens had broken, but I was pretty pleased with what I could get.
Grey-cheeked FulvettaSomeone noted a unique flock behaviour while observing these. Apparently, only one - presumably the leader - gives out calls, something like 'barking' out orders while the others, usually silent, are busy feeding and hopping around. It may also be acting as a sentry to watch out for the flock, since their guards might be let down a little if they get too engrossed in the berries!
Slowly, while the sun's rays brushed the canopies of the trees, we trickled into the trail. There was supposed to be a fruiting tree at the 600 m mark, but to me, the trail didn't prove fruitful (pun intended) at all! The trail is well maintained, though, being a metre wide at parts and without much obstruction. But, the flora here is certainly bad for the neck muscles! Trees towering on all sides as we're merely walking at their roots. No valleys to look down into, so everything is high, high up.
So, I resorted to the lower storey. There were some movements here and there but they never stayed long enough or showed a good bit of themselves to be identified properly. The only bird I managed to catch a good glimpse of was a Pygmy Wren-Babbler. Even then, it made me work hard, peering under fallen tree logs and shifting continuously, kind of a mix between a wild 'wren-babbler' chase and hide-and-seek!
The only other thing of note is I might have glimpsed the Purple Cochoa (huge stress on the 'might'). I was aroused by this weird call - harsh and cat-like, going 'mrreeewww' - coming from high up. I was nowhere near the fruiting tree, so I passed it off at first as I was still pursuing the Wren-Babbler. But a movement around the middle canopy made me look up. Raising my binoculars, I made out this chestnut-brown bird of roughly Fairy Bluebird size among the boughs of the trees. Only the back, wings and nape were visible to me. Its primaries were notably darker than the rest of the wing and the tail was darkish. No matter where I moved, there was no better angle and my neck was already feeling much strain! The moment I lowered by binoculars, another darker bird flew in. It stopped on the branch right next to the former bird, giving me a full-frontal view, albeit with much backlighting. It was dark grey, very much darker than the other . It gave out that mewing call again, fanned its tail once and... that was the last I saw of both of them. I can never be sure because it was so vague and the call description as in Craig Robson's field guide does not match what I heard. Oh well, all the more reason for me to return to Doi Inthanon!
Feeling that the trail was much unpromising and still so dim, rendering my camera redundant, I headed out. It was full daylight already. Our driver had left to fetch Mam from the 1st checkpoint, so we all had to wait around. I joined a few others walking along the road and though only the commoner birds were sighted, they gave more satisfaction.
So, I resorted to the lower storey. There were some movements here and there but they never stayed long enough or showed a good bit of themselves to be identified properly. The only bird I managed to catch a good glimpse of was a Pygmy Wren-Babbler. Even then, it made me work hard, peering under fallen tree logs and shifting continuously, kind of a mix between a wild 'wren-babbler' chase and hide-and-seek!
The only other thing of note is I might have glimpsed the Purple Cochoa (huge stress on the 'might'). I was aroused by this weird call - harsh and cat-like, going 'mrreeewww' - coming from high up. I was nowhere near the fruiting tree, so I passed it off at first as I was still pursuing the Wren-Babbler. But a movement around the middle canopy made me look up. Raising my binoculars, I made out this chestnut-brown bird of roughly Fairy Bluebird size among the boughs of the trees. Only the back, wings and nape were visible to me. Its primaries were notably darker than the rest of the wing and the tail was darkish. No matter where I moved, there was no better angle and my neck was already feeling much strain! The moment I lowered by binoculars, another darker bird flew in. It stopped on the branch right next to the former bird, giving me a full-frontal view, albeit with much backlighting. It was dark grey, very much darker than the other . It gave out that mewing call again, fanned its tail once and... that was the last I saw of both of them. I can never be sure because it was so vague and the call description as in Craig Robson's field guide does not match what I heard. Oh well, all the more reason for me to return to Doi Inthanon!
Feeling that the trail was much unpromising and still so dim, rendering my camera redundant, I headed out. It was full daylight already. Our driver had left to fetch Mam from the 1st checkpoint, so we all had to wait around. I joined a few others walking along the road and though only the commoner birds were sighted, they gave more satisfaction.
Flavescent BulbulThere was actually a pair preening each other, but I only caught this loner here.
Black-headed SibiaAgain, a couple of these feeding on a small fruting tree just beside the road.
The van delivered Mam at 10am. By this time, almost everyone was out of the trail. Susan reported having found a fruiting tree and almost breaking her neck staring vertically up! She also thinks she glimpsed the Purple Cochoa there, but she cannot be sure either.
After some deliberation on where else we should go to spend the rest of our morning, Huay Saai Leung waterfall got the majority vote. I suspect they were all thinking of the River Chat! But, truthfully speaking, we did have a good time there yesterday, so we decided to give it another go.
This time, the same bird wave greeted us right at the car park. The black-and-red and black-and-yellow streamers were again feeding as a happy family. They came down so low this time and often were within three feet at my eye-level! And I am barely five feet tall! My lens couldn't even focus as they were well over my minimum focal length! But, ah, it felt good to be so close to these beautiful avians.
After some deliberation on where else we should go to spend the rest of our morning, Huay Saai Leung waterfall got the majority vote. I suspect they were all thinking of the River Chat! But, truthfully speaking, we did have a good time there yesterday, so we decided to give it another go.
This time, the same bird wave greeted us right at the car park. The black-and-red and black-and-yellow streamers were again feeding as a happy family. They came down so low this time and often were within three feet at my eye-level! And I am barely five feet tall! My lens couldn't even focus as they were well over my minimum focal length! But, ah, it felt good to be so close to these beautiful avians.
Scarlet Minivet (male)Good ol' dad looking out for everyone.
Scarlet Minivet (female)Mum? Or sis?
Scarlet Minivet (juvenile male)Most likely the most precious of the lot - only son in the family. Seems like the youngest too. No offence!
Other species which made up the bird wave are Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Grey-headed Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail, White-bellied Yuhinas and Black-naped Monarchs to name a few. Even when I thought I wouldn't be able to see any tree-tappers, out pops one!
Grey-capped WoodpeckerMost of the DSLR and digiscoping gang had undoubtedly gone upstream to huff and puff over the River Chat! Having enough of the outside bird wave, I tagged along, choosing a quiet spot close enough to the river bank to wait patiently. And I was aptly rewarded! Unsuspectingly, the star bird pranced long enough in a sunlit spot among the ochre rocks to give me ample lighting for a decent shot. Of course, it still cannot be compared to the great shots of the 'bazookas,' but I came out of hiding as pleased as punch.
River ChatAfter the initial excitement, the 'sifus' decided to up the bar. The perfect shot of this hot target must be as such: in full sunlight, side view, white crown, gleam in eye, glistening black feathers, both feet, rusty breast, cocked-up tail, rusty rump all visible. Or even better still, with prey in beak! Some of them really did achieve such perfect shots, and I take my hat off to them!
Satisfied at last, I ventured outside again alone for a stroll just to see what else could show up. The 'grey bottom' was around again. This time, no one was around to mishear me!
Grey-backed ShrikePity I couldn't record its namesake feature.
Lunch was a scrumptious meal brought all the way up from Chiang Mai town by Mam: khao man kai a.k.a. chicken rice. It is different from the variety we normally get at home, but hey, my trip wouldn't be complete without the taste of local flavour, would it? The packets were about the size of our banana leaf-wrapped nasi lemak. The chicken is soaked in a thick and slightly spicy gravy. Separate packets containing gravy of different levels of spiciness were provided, too. It was a hearty meal after a good morning.
Soon after, we bade goodbye to our favourite haunt and Mam brought us to Km23. There was a side road leading to another village and we walked along it for awhile. I suppose it was because the sun was already high up in the sky that the birds preferred to remain less active. The only ones which did not seem bothered were a pair of Ashy Drongos doing aerial stunts from a convenient high vantage point.
Soon after, we bade goodbye to our favourite haunt and Mam brought us to Km23. There was a side road leading to another village and we walked along it for awhile. I suppose it was because the sun was already high up in the sky that the birds preferred to remain less active. The only ones which did not seem bothered were a pair of Ashy Drongos doing aerial stunts from a convenient high vantage point.
Ashy DrongoThere you go. Right after lift-off to spell doom for another insect.
Ashy DrongoPeek-a-boo!
By evening, we left the area and made a last sortie to the Royal Project. The ones usually sighted around the area are the Common Rosefinch, Grey Bushchat and Daurian Redstart. But light was fading and none of these were seen. So, off to an early dinner instead at the Royal Project Headquarters.
Royal Project Headquarters CanteenWhite waiting for our orders, we spotted this striking display of the products of the Royal Project. You can easily guess what was the main attraction.
Uncle David with the Pumpkin
Pumpkin-posin' with SusanIs it going to turn into a shining carriage for any poor pretty maid to whisk her away to a glamorous ball with her Prince Charming? Only to leave her glass slipper here in... Doi Inthanon!
Dinner comprised of fried pork ribs, assorted vegetables all locally grown, fried omelette with pork and pork tofu seaweed soup. This sort of meat is in abundance here!
After a rather luxurious meal, none of us were even in the least prepared for what was to come - our accommodation for the night. We reached the Karen Village Chalets at 7.30 pm, and being dark already, all I could make out were some kampung houses lining the edge of the field. Not till Susan opened the door did I see how kampung we had come to be!
The moment the door swung open, Susan who was at the doorway stood dumbstruck and after a few moments of silence, burst out laughing at the state we were going to be in! Now, who wouldn't be stunned at the very least if you stepped into a box shaped room with two king sized mattresses to sleep three each lying on the floor! All the surfaces of the 'box' were woven mats. Even the windows were wooden planks which needed to be propped up by a long stick! But of course, we kept all possible openings closed all the time to shut out the freezing air!
The house has a small verandah which creaks under your weight at every step. A small bathroom is attached to it, with steps leading down into this plastic sheet-covered cement-walled space, with a shower (no heater!), sink and toilet bowl. But then again, no one can complain. At least we have this instead of an outhouse! And it is definitely much better than having to go it nature style.
We quickly settled in and many opted for bed as soon as possible as they shuddered even at the thought of showering at this time of the night! But nothing would stop our iron lady Susan. She emerged from the shower, announcing that it wasn't as cold as Bukit Larut. Hearing this, I immediately reached for a new set of clothes and my towel. If it is as she says, then I'm more than used to it! True enough, it was highly rejuvenating in that ice-cold water and it got the blood pumping comfortably through me. Just what I needed.
Dinner comprised of fried pork ribs, assorted vegetables all locally grown, fried omelette with pork and pork tofu seaweed soup. This sort of meat is in abundance here!
After a rather luxurious meal, none of us were even in the least prepared for what was to come - our accommodation for the night. We reached the Karen Village Chalets at 7.30 pm, and being dark already, all I could make out were some kampung houses lining the edge of the field. Not till Susan opened the door did I see how kampung we had come to be!
The moment the door swung open, Susan who was at the doorway stood dumbstruck and after a few moments of silence, burst out laughing at the state we were going to be in! Now, who wouldn't be stunned at the very least if you stepped into a box shaped room with two king sized mattresses to sleep three each lying on the floor! All the surfaces of the 'box' were woven mats. Even the windows were wooden planks which needed to be propped up by a long stick! But of course, we kept all possible openings closed all the time to shut out the freezing air!
The house has a small verandah which creaks under your weight at every step. A small bathroom is attached to it, with steps leading down into this plastic sheet-covered cement-walled space, with a shower (no heater!), sink and toilet bowl. But then again, no one can complain. At least we have this instead of an outhouse! And it is definitely much better than having to go it nature style.
We quickly settled in and many opted for bed as soon as possible as they shuddered even at the thought of showering at this time of the night! But nothing would stop our iron lady Susan. She emerged from the shower, announcing that it wasn't as cold as Bukit Larut. Hearing this, I immediately reached for a new set of clothes and my towel. If it is as she says, then I'm more than used to it! True enough, it was highly rejuvenating in that ice-cold water and it got the blood pumping comfortably through me. Just what I needed.
The Karen Village ChaletClockwise from top left: Our luggage crammed into the limited walking space we had; the mattresses; the basic bathroom; the verandah where we left most of our food supplies.
This was certainly an experience to remember!
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