CNXJan08 (IV) - From Brick Walls to Wooden Houses

This morning was a rush. After gulping down breakfast, it was a rush to pack up all our luggage, a rush to load them all into the vans, a rush to unload all of them again at the reception. Our three nights stay at EGAT was up and we needed to move out to accommodate for other EGAT staff.

Just before we left, I barely remembered that I hadn't got shots of the chalets. Oh well, even in the dark, I clicked.

The EGAT Chalet which I stayed in.

The other EGAT chalet

By 6am, leaving our non-valuables behind and all our precious gear safely with us, off we went to KM37 just after the 2nd checkpoint of Doi Inthanon.

2nd Checkpoint at KM37

The lure of this spot were recent sightings of the much sought-after Purple and Green Cochoas, reported in a bird log book at Mr Deang's place. It was a little too early when we arrived as the trail was still cloaked in shadows, so we decided to hang around outside for a little while. Our reward - a small yet very active flock of Grey-cheeked Fulvettas which were foraging on small berries right where the vans were parked. My flash wasn't strong enough as my Fresnel lens had broken, but I was pretty pleased with what I could get.

Grey-cheeked Fulvetta
Someone noted a unique flock behaviour while observing these. Apparently, only one - presumably the leader - gives out calls, something like 'barking' out orders while the others, usually silent, are busy feeding and hopping around. It may also be acting as a sentry to watch out for the flock, since their guards might be let down a little if they get too engrossed in the berries!

Slowly, while the sun's rays brushed the canopies of the trees, we trickled into the trail. There was supposed to be a fruiting tree at the 600 m mark, but to me, the trail didn't prove fruitful (pun intended) at all! The trail is well maintained, though, being a metre wide at parts and without much obstruction. But, the flora here is certainly bad for the neck muscles! Trees towering on all sides as we're merely walking at their roots. No valleys to look down into, so everything is high, high up.

So, I resorted to the lower storey. There were some movements here and there but they never stayed long enough or showed a good bit of themselves to be identified properly. The only bird I managed to catch a good glimpse of was a Pygmy Wren-Babbler. Even then, it made me work hard, peering under fallen tree logs and shifting continuously, kind of a mix between a wild 'wren-babbler' chase and hide-and-seek!

The only other thing of note is I might have glimpsed the Purple Cochoa (huge stress on the 'might'). I was aroused by this weird call - harsh and cat-like, going 'mrreeewww' - coming from high up. I was nowhere near the fruiting tree, so I passed it off at first as I was still pursuing the Wren-Babbler. But a movement around the middle canopy made me look up. Raising my binoculars, I made out this chestnut-brown bird of roughly Fairy Bluebird size among the boughs of the trees. Only the back, wings and nape were visible to me. Its primaries were notably darker than the rest of the wing and the tail was darkish. No matter where I moved, there was no better angle and my neck was already feeling much strain! The moment I lowered by binoculars, another darker bird flew in. It stopped on the branch right next to the former bird, giving me a full-frontal view, albeit with much backlighting. It was dark grey, very much darker than the other . It gave out that mewing call again, fanned its tail once and... that was the last I saw of both of them. I can never be sure because it was so vague and the call description as in Craig Robson's field guide does not match what I heard. Oh well, all the more reason for me to return to Doi Inthanon!

Feeling that the trail was much unpromising and still so dim, rendering my camera redundant, I headed out. It was full daylight already. Our driver had left to fetch Mam from the 1st checkpoint, so we all had to wait around. I joined a few others walking along the road and though only the commoner birds were sighted, they gave more satisfaction.

Flavescent Bulbul
There was actually a pair preening each other, but I only caught this loner here.

Black-headed Sibia
Again, a couple of these feeding on a small fruting tree just beside the road.

The van delivered Mam at 10am. By this time, almost everyone was out of the trail. Susan reported having found a fruiting tree and almost breaking her neck staring vertically up! She also thinks she glimpsed the Purple Cochoa there, but she cannot be sure either.

After some deliberation on where else we should go to spend the rest of our morning, Huay Saai Leung waterfall got the majority vote. I suspect they were all thinking of the River Chat! But, truthfully speaking, we did have a good time there yesterday, so we decided to give it another go.

This time, the same bird wave greeted us right at the car park. The black-and-red and black-and-yellow streamers were again feeding as a happy family. They came down so low this time and often were within three feet at my eye-level! And I am barely five feet tall! My lens couldn't even focus as they were well over my minimum focal length! But, ah, it felt good to be so close to these beautiful avians.

Scarlet Minivet (male)
Good ol' dad looking out for everyone.

Scarlet Minivet (female)
Mum? Or sis?

Scarlet Minivet (juvenile male)
Most likely the most precious of the lot - only son in the family. Seems like the youngest too. No offence!

Other species which made up the bird wave are Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Grey-headed Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail, White-bellied Yuhinas and Black-naped Monarchs to name a few. Even when I thought I wouldn't be able to see any tree-tappers, out pops one!

Grey-capped Woodpecker

Most of the DSLR and digiscoping gang had undoubtedly gone upstream to huff and puff over the River Chat! Having enough of the outside bird wave, I tagged along, choosing a quiet spot close enough to the river bank to wait patiently. And I was aptly rewarded! Unsuspectingly, the star bird pranced long enough in a sunlit spot among the ochre rocks to give me ample lighting for a decent shot. Of course, it still cannot be compared to the great shots of the 'bazookas,' but I came out of hiding as pleased as punch.

River Chat
After the initial excitement, the 'sifus' decided to up the bar. The perfect shot of this hot target must be as such: in full sunlight, side view, white crown, gleam in eye, glistening black feathers, both feet, rusty breast, cocked-up tail, rusty rump all visible. Or even better still, with prey in beak! Some of them really did achieve such perfect shots, and I take my hat off to them!

Satisfied at last, I ventured outside again alone for a stroll just to see what else could show up. The 'grey bottom' was around again. This time, no one was around to mishear me!

Grey-backed Shrike
Pity I couldn't record its namesake feature.

Lunch was a scrumptious meal brought all the way up from Chiang Mai town by Mam: khao man kai a.k.a. chicken rice. It is different from the variety we normally get at home, but hey, my trip wouldn't be complete without the taste of local flavour, would it? The packets were about the size of our banana leaf-wrapped nasi lemak. The chicken is soaked in a thick and slightly spicy gravy. Separate packets containing gravy of different levels of spiciness were provided, too. It was a hearty meal after a good morning.

Soon after, we bade goodbye to our favourite haunt and Mam brought us to Km23. There was a side road leading to another village and we walked along it for awhile. I suppose it was because the sun was already high up in the sky that the birds preferred to remain less active. The only ones which did not seem bothered were a pair of Ashy Drongos doing aerial stunts from a convenient high vantage point.

Ashy Drongo
There you go. Right after lift-off to spell doom for another insect.

Ashy Drongo
Peek-a-boo!

By evening, we left the area and made a last sortie to the Royal Project. The ones usually sighted around the area are the Common Rosefinch, Grey Bushchat and Daurian Redstart. But light was fading and none of these were seen. So, off to an early dinner instead at the Royal Project Headquarters.

Royal Project Headquarters Canteen

White waiting for our orders, we spotted this striking display of the products of the Royal Project. You can easily guess what was the main attraction.

Uncle David with the Pumpkin

Pumpkin-posin' with Susan

Is it going to turn into a shining carriage for any poor pretty maid to whisk her away to a glamorous ball with her Prince Charming? Only to leave her glass slipper here in... Doi Inthanon!

Dinner comprised of fried pork ribs, assorted vegetables all locally grown, fried omelette with pork and pork tofu seaweed soup. This sort of meat is in abundance here!

After a rather luxurious meal, none of us were even in the least prepared for what was to come - our accommodation for the night. We reached the Karen Village Chalets at 7.30 pm, and being dark already, all I could make out were some kampung houses lining the edge of the field. Not till Susan opened the door did I see how kampung we had come to be!

The moment the door swung open, Susan who was at the doorway stood dumbstruck and after a few moments of silence, burst out laughing at the state we were going to be in! Now, who wouldn't be stunned at the very least if you stepped into a box shaped room with two king sized mattresses to sleep three each lying on the floor! All the surfaces of the 'box' were woven mats. Even the windows were wooden planks which needed to be propped up by a long stick! But of course, we kept all possible openings closed all the time to shut out the freezing air!

The house has a small verandah which creaks under your weight at every step. A small bathroom is attached to it, with steps leading down into this plastic sheet-covered cement-walled space, with a shower (no heater!), sink and toilet bowl. But then again, no one can complain. At least we have this instead of an outhouse! And it is definitely much better than having to go it nature style.

We quickly settled in and many opted for bed as soon as possible as they shuddered even at the thought of showering at this time of the night! But nothing would stop our iron lady Susan. She emerged from the shower, announcing that it wasn't as cold as Bukit Larut. Hearing this, I immediately reached for a new set of clothes and my towel. If it is as she says, then I'm more than used to it! True enough, it was highly rejuvenating in that ice-cold water and it got the blood pumping comfortably through me. Just what I needed.

The Karen Village Chalet
Clockwise from top left: Our luggage crammed into the limited walking space we had; the mattresses; the basic bathroom; the verandah where we left most of our food supplies.

Refreshed, I tucked myself up into my sleeping bag and fell asleep almost at once.

This was certainly an experience to remember!

CNXJan08 (III) - Of Streams and Savannahs

Since our efforts to wake up before daybreak yesterday seemed not such a good idea as we would end up reaching our destination in almost pitch darkness, we all slept in for a good extra hour before gearing up for the day. Being photographers, too, it wouldn't be much point in catching the earliest bird yet not having enough light streaming through our lenses to catch it in another way.

During lunch yesterday, Mr Deang had actually given some directions to Susan about a good birding area. But, unfortunately, the language barrier kicked in again and we ended up in a different place - the Huay Saai Leung waterfall.

Even though it was admittedly much warmer than where we were 24 hours ago, the cool breeze one gets from the waterfall was enough to stiffen my face! The moment I alighted from the van, I was pacing here and there, desperately trying to find some shelter from the chill!

Hmm. Where was the wind blowing from? Ah, let me try... Behind the van? No, it didn't work. Maybe at another angle? Still no. As I had already unloaded my things, I was much too lazy to get into the van again even though it would provide a sure relief!

Thank goodness for my thick windbreaker. My only route of escape was simply turning my back against the wind!

The shadows of the mountain grew shorter as the rays began to touch the topmost trees. Soon, the dimness revealed a row of cheerful pink blossoms lined up against the clear blue sky.

Blossoms - just look at the contrast of colours!

These blossoming trees played host to the first show of the day - small flocks of Orange-bellied Leafbirds and Blue-winged Leafbirds. There was a tree where the lowest branches were around eye-level, so it provided good practice for me. The birds were obliging enough. Ah well, even though they may be common, I still do not have any decent shots of the Blue-winged Leafbirds from Malaysia! Here, they became easy pickings as the trees have sparse foliage and the subjects come close enough for my lens.

Anyway, the composition of these Leafbirds against the petals and the sky backdrop were really pretty. Some of my shots even somewhat resembled Chinese brush paintings. The colours were all there - the apple green birds with their golden heads, the soft pink shades of the blossoms and the azure cloudless sky. What more can I ask for?

Blue-winged Leafbird (male)
One of the many shots of the small flock which kept me occupied for over half an hour.

When I had satisfied myself well enough, I then ventured out eagerly for other birds. In the distance, I saw some of them creeping around with their lenses pointed at the ground. A black-and-white darted up from the ground, bounding playfully before it zipped for the ground again, tail wagging like a puppy in delight. A White Wagtail!

I joined in the chase, too. Playing hide-and-seek with a pair of them which would never let us approach closer than 10 feet. One step any nearer and off they go! After stalking them across the field, they decided enough was enough and flew off, circling all around us and landed at the very starting point! Those who still persevered headed after them again but I was having a good laugh and wanted to explore other places.

White Wagtail
When it perched so high up, I first thought it was a minivet. But as I stared harder, it was none other than the same joker from earlier. Ah, I like this shot better than those I have of it walking on the grass.

Around the field through which we stalked the wagtails were chalets and dormitories but today, there seemed to be no occupants. So, we went to have a peek inside and they proved to be tidy and clean. The place kind of reminds me of some of the Hutan Rekreasi or State Parks back home, but here the facilities are well maintained.

There was a track nearby but wasn't really fruitful. Many calls were heard but we just couldn't see any of them. They were either too high up in the canopy or too far away. So, I came out again as the open spaces seemed to be more interesting.

Good thing, too, for a Grey-backed Shrike was awaiting us at the entrance of the track. At first, when I said the name out loud to notify the others, I was misheard - quite embarrassingly, too! I suppose I spoke rather fast and joined the words together. When they asked what was it and I repeated it a little slower, then only did they realize I was actually referring to a bird as most of them, as they soon discovered, had heard 'grey backside'! It was rather shy, sadly, so I didn't manage a good frame.

A small family of minivets then attracted our attention. There was a male, a couple of females and this interesting juvenile.

Scarlet Minivet ? (juvenile male)

Its mixture of orange and yellow just made it too difficult to resist as it stood out from the rest of its family. I was curious of its species, too, as I thought it to be a juvenile male Scarlet Minivet. It does have the two extra spots on the secondaries but I couldn't get a good look at the exact wing pattern. Do correct me if I'm mistaken.

After the bird wave had dissipated, I decided to rest and enjoy the scenery in a small hut beside the stream. My memory cards were already full so I began clearing them by uploading the memory into a portable hard disk. I was just lightly listening to Susan who was chatting with someone else whom I can't recall when there was this high-pitched whistle piercing the air. Somehow at first it didn't seem to register in my mind as my thoughts just passed it off without taking any notice.

All of a sudden, I jolted upright as my mind put two and two together as to where I had heard that call. Many things happened all at once. I jumped up clumsily, shouting, "River Chat!" obviously startling those with me and breaking up their conversation. The moment my eyes searched the stream, there it was! A black and red with a white cap - flicking its tail and running short bursts along a rock while whistling at the top of its lungs in bright sunlight!

I gestured wildly at the rock it was on and kept gasping "River Chat! River Chat! There! There on that rock!" Those who heard made a rush for their gear and zoned in on it like a pack of famished wolves closing in on a prey. I rushed downstream to alert the rest as my memory card was still loading and my gear was helpless at the moment.

The sighting of the River Chat sparked a day-long chase up and down the entire accessible length of the stream. At first, it headed downstream before disappearing right under our noses. Later, when I headed up to the waterfall (not to look for it, mind you), there it appeared again! The same rush ensued and I merely stood back and laughed, watching the amusing spectacle of 'Desperate Birders' unfold yet again.

River Chat @ White-capped Water Redstart
The 'official' name of the bird is just too long to shout out. The simpler name contains only half the syllables of the latter. Imagine me having to shout out "White-capped Water Redstart!" repeatedly in that frenzied state I get in when a star bird is spotted. I would be out of breath before I can say it the third time!

I went out to the carpark again to see what I could find. Another mixed flock was foraging and hawking for insects which abound beside streams. Among the species worth noting are a female Red-throated Flycatcher, a male Blue Rock-Thrush, a pair each of Flavescent and Sooty-headed Bulbuls which were of the red-vented variety.

White-bellied Yuhina
Yet another species which I have failed to document in Malaysia.

Refreshing - Huay Saai Leung Waterfall
I only went in to have a look at the falls when it was warm enough. Still, the gushing puffs of air made me shiver a little!

After they had enough of chasing the River Chat, we headed out for lunch as it was already past noon. Everyone had warmed up and was ready for a good meal. The Park headquarters canteen we stopped at. I had fried noodles with shrimp for 30 baht.

The Park HQ

Park HQ Canteen

Uncle David and Uncle Lum preferred to be different this time. Instead of ordering single dishes like the rest of us did, they ordered a menu of dishes - rice with separate dishes of fried fish and vegetables.

After lunch, Susan brought us to a scenic trail for our afternoon sortie - the Kew Mae Pan. There was a ruling which stated anyone who entered the trail had to be accompanied by a local guide and there was an entrance fee of 20 baht per person. But for groups, there should be a maximum of 10 people with a fee of 200 baht. Since there were 11 of us, all of them unanimously agreed that I needn't pay my part as it would prove too complicated but of course with the excuse that I was still a 'juvenile.' Alright. Thank you!

Kew Mae Pan trail map
The trail is 3km long - the first kilometre being a rather gentle ascend, the second mainly trekking along the summit and the third is the most trying of all!

A waterfall along the first stretch of the trail.
All of us stopped for a group photo as there was a convenient platform for everyone to crowd on.

Again, the forest here captivated me. There was the evergreen forest, cloud forest and montane forest to name some but I am just so astounded by the sight of the plant life here!

Still along the first kilometre, Uncle Alagan spots something creeping up a tree - more of jumping, perhaps. Jason takes a look at it - a Brown-throated Treecreeper! There goes another rush for the agile bird which kept gliding from one tree to another. It would start from the base of a tree, skip all the way to the top, choose another trunk and glide to its target and 'stick' to it! It reminded me of the flying lizard whenever it switches trees - the way it glides and flops upon the tree trunk!

Brown-throated Treecreeper
Can you see it? Rather camouflaged, really. Not an award-winning shot, I know, but something I can be proud of!

Further on, suddenly Jason and Kim who are in front of me stop dead in their tracks. I see a blur flying low across the path into the undergrowth. Everyone becomes hushed. Jason turns back and whispers hoarsely, "Partridge!"

My heart leapt into my mouth as I crept forward. We started peering into the bushes. A movement to the right of the trail. There they were! A pair of Rufous-throated Partridges were foraging about 10 metres away and just hidden by all the foliage. Their backs were towards us but when one raised its head and looked over its shoulder, I had a clear view of the rufous throat. I was elated! Not daring to breathe even, for fear I would be heard. I even had to tread carefully so as not to break a twig as even that might startle these shy birds.

They stayed for about 5 minutes before we lost sight of them. But it was worth it! Never did any of us expect to see them here. It was a marvellous bonus for me!

For the rest of the trek, there were few other sightings. But the highlight of this trail is the scenery when one steps out of the shades of the forest into the golden hues of the alpine savanna. The transition is immediate as the forest ends abruptly at the edge of the savanna. It was a cloudless sky with no hint of mist at all, so the view here was astounding.

The Alpine Savanna

Everyone enthralled by the scenery
Please do pardon me for my awe and enthusiasm! I have always been a frog living underneath a coconut shell, so this is a whole new eye-opening (sorry for the over-used cliche) experience!

Uncle B and Uncle Lum who had already reached the summit while most of us were still stuck snapping endless shots of anything we could

The Summit of Kew Mae Pan
On such a clear day, you can see the expanse whole valley plus far into the horizon beyond.
Pictures just fail to capture the moment and everything associated with it, but they're much better than I can ask for!

Descent
For those who have a certain fear of heights, just keep looking straight! Not over the edge.

Goral habitat area
(a Goral is a species of mountain goat which inhabits these vertical slopes - they are known to nimbly manoeuver along the bare rocks and have been sighted by a lucky person or two)

Hello there! They're still at the beginning. This was taken when I was at the opposite ridge as it sort of curves round in the shape of a horseshoe.

During the descent, I was walking along a path only a foot wide where on my right is an almost vertical drop. In most areas, the drop is a meadow of shrubs but in certain patches, its rock and sand! Along some stretches, the shrubs growing right at the edge of the path are tall and firm enough to act as a somewhat natural fence. You can tell which corners are a tad more tricky as simple makeshift railings have been put up.

As I walked along this ridge, I just couldn't help stopping every 10 steps or so to view the scenery from a slightly different angle. My camera just kept on clicking but I just couldn't get enough!

A Rhododendron tree growing precariously on the precipice

Beautiful Rhododendrons
Don't ever think of reaching out to pick them!

The trail plods for about a kilometre through this alpine savanna, after which you enter the forest again. As it was scorching hot outside due to the high altitude (I must have absorbed enough ultra-violet rays to fluoresce in the dark!), it was a relief to be back under the cool shades of the trees. How ungrateful I am for the weather - in the morning I say it's too cold, now it's too warm and I can't wait to be back in the forest?

For this last leg of the trail, I followed Uncle B in heading out. It was tiring! Up and down and up and down. Every time we went down, oh no, we thought, there would surely be a path headed up again! It couldn't be more true. Many small valleys we crossed. Same pattern as we huffed and puffed over countless hills. The path would wind down into a small valley where we would have to cross a small stream, and then before us rose a steep flight of steps up a merciless slope!

By the time we got out, the others had been left far behind and it was evening already. Having to wait for the rest, the hung around the entrance to catch our breath. But not for long, either, for a few late shows popped up around us. Feeling as if my legs were soft like jelly could not prevent me from grabbing my gear to go after these few. Uncle B, too, had a go, with excellent rewards of the Black-backed Sibia and some Warblers.

Black-backed Sibia

Chestnut-tailed Minla
A flock of these turned up, hawking for moths, but Uncle B did not heed them as he already had a stunning shot from the Ang Ka trail. So, I just did what I could, then.

The others trickled out of the trail by 6pm local time. Susan came out, hopeful for a bowl of papaya salad at the stalls around the car park but they had already closed. Most had a light snack or a drink as they were still available.

We popped over at Mr Deang's farm for awhile to try our luck with any Bushchats. All we got was a lone Red-whiskered Bulbul as it was getting dark and we were all tired.

Back to EGAT it was for a good shower. Dinner was an affair of pork tomyam, sweet and sour tilapia, spinach and mixed vegetables - broccoli, cucumber and snow peas to name some.

By 10.30 p.m., my bed was calling out for me!