Wednesday 2 April 2008

CNXJan08 (III) - Of Streams and Savannahs

Since our efforts to wake up before daybreak yesterday seemed not such a good idea as we would end up reaching our destination in almost pitch darkness, we all slept in for a good extra hour before gearing up for the day. Being photographers, too, it wouldn't be much point in catching the earliest bird yet not having enough light streaming through our lenses to catch it in another way.

During lunch yesterday, Mr Deang had actually given some directions to Susan about a good birding area. But, unfortunately, the language barrier kicked in again and we ended up in a different place - the Huay Saai Leung waterfall.

Even though it was admittedly much warmer than where we were 24 hours ago, the cool breeze one gets from the waterfall was enough to stiffen my face! The moment I alighted from the van, I was pacing here and there, desperately trying to find some shelter from the chill!

Hmm. Where was the wind blowing from? Ah, let me try... Behind the van? No, it didn't work. Maybe at another angle? Still no. As I had already unloaded my things, I was much too lazy to get into the van again even though it would provide a sure relief!

Thank goodness for my thick windbreaker. My only route of escape was simply turning my back against the wind!

The shadows of the mountain grew shorter as the rays began to touch the topmost trees. Soon, the dimness revealed a row of cheerful pink blossoms lined up against the clear blue sky.

Blossoms - just look at the contrast of colours!

These blossoming trees played host to the first show of the day - small flocks of Orange-bellied Leafbirds and Blue-winged Leafbirds. There was a tree where the lowest branches were around eye-level, so it provided good practice for me. The birds were obliging enough. Ah well, even though they may be common, I still do not have any decent shots of the Blue-winged Leafbirds from Malaysia! Here, they became easy pickings as the trees have sparse foliage and the subjects come close enough for my lens.

Anyway, the composition of these Leafbirds against the petals and the sky backdrop were really pretty. Some of my shots even somewhat resembled Chinese brush paintings. The colours were all there - the apple green birds with their golden heads, the soft pink shades of the blossoms and the azure cloudless sky. What more can I ask for?

Blue-winged Leafbird (male)
One of the many shots of the small flock which kept me occupied for over half an hour.

When I had satisfied myself well enough, I then ventured out eagerly for other birds. In the distance, I saw some of them creeping around with their lenses pointed at the ground. A black-and-white darted up from the ground, bounding playfully before it zipped for the ground again, tail wagging like a puppy in delight. A White Wagtail!

I joined in the chase, too. Playing hide-and-seek with a pair of them which would never let us approach closer than 10 feet. One step any nearer and off they go! After stalking them across the field, they decided enough was enough and flew off, circling all around us and landed at the very starting point! Those who still persevered headed after them again but I was having a good laugh and wanted to explore other places.

White Wagtail
When it perched so high up, I first thought it was a minivet. But as I stared harder, it was none other than the same joker from earlier. Ah, I like this shot better than those I have of it walking on the grass.

Around the field through which we stalked the wagtails were chalets and dormitories but today, there seemed to be no occupants. So, we went to have a peek inside and they proved to be tidy and clean. The place kind of reminds me of some of the Hutan Rekreasi or State Parks back home, but here the facilities are well maintained.

There was a track nearby but wasn't really fruitful. Many calls were heard but we just couldn't see any of them. They were either too high up in the canopy or too far away. So, I came out again as the open spaces seemed to be more interesting.

Good thing, too, for a Grey-backed Shrike was awaiting us at the entrance of the track. At first, when I said the name out loud to notify the others, I was misheard - quite embarrassingly, too! I suppose I spoke rather fast and joined the words together. When they asked what was it and I repeated it a little slower, then only did they realize I was actually referring to a bird as most of them, as they soon discovered, had heard 'grey backside'! It was rather shy, sadly, so I didn't manage a good frame.

A small family of minivets then attracted our attention. There was a male, a couple of females and this interesting juvenile.

Scarlet Minivet ? (juvenile male)

Its mixture of orange and yellow just made it too difficult to resist as it stood out from the rest of its family. I was curious of its species, too, as I thought it to be a juvenile male Scarlet Minivet. It does have the two extra spots on the secondaries but I couldn't get a good look at the exact wing pattern. Do correct me if I'm mistaken.

After the bird wave had dissipated, I decided to rest and enjoy the scenery in a small hut beside the stream. My memory cards were already full so I began clearing them by uploading the memory into a portable hard disk. I was just lightly listening to Susan who was chatting with someone else whom I can't recall when there was this high-pitched whistle piercing the air. Somehow at first it didn't seem to register in my mind as my thoughts just passed it off without taking any notice.

All of a sudden, I jolted upright as my mind put two and two together as to where I had heard that call. Many things happened all at once. I jumped up clumsily, shouting, "River Chat!" obviously startling those with me and breaking up their conversation. The moment my eyes searched the stream, there it was! A black and red with a white cap - flicking its tail and running short bursts along a rock while whistling at the top of its lungs in bright sunlight!

I gestured wildly at the rock it was on and kept gasping "River Chat! River Chat! There! There on that rock!" Those who heard made a rush for their gear and zoned in on it like a pack of famished wolves closing in on a prey. I rushed downstream to alert the rest as my memory card was still loading and my gear was helpless at the moment.

The sighting of the River Chat sparked a day-long chase up and down the entire accessible length of the stream. At first, it headed downstream before disappearing right under our noses. Later, when I headed up to the waterfall (not to look for it, mind you), there it appeared again! The same rush ensued and I merely stood back and laughed, watching the amusing spectacle of 'Desperate Birders' unfold yet again.

River Chat @ White-capped Water Redstart
The 'official' name of the bird is just too long to shout out. The simpler name contains only half the syllables of the latter. Imagine me having to shout out "White-capped Water Redstart!" repeatedly in that frenzied state I get in when a star bird is spotted. I would be out of breath before I can say it the third time!

I went out to the carpark again to see what I could find. Another mixed flock was foraging and hawking for insects which abound beside streams. Among the species worth noting are a female Red-throated Flycatcher, a male Blue Rock-Thrush, a pair each of Flavescent and Sooty-headed Bulbuls which were of the red-vented variety.

White-bellied Yuhina
Yet another species which I have failed to document in Malaysia.

Refreshing - Huay Saai Leung Waterfall
I only went in to have a look at the falls when it was warm enough. Still, the gushing puffs of air made me shiver a little!

After they had enough of chasing the River Chat, we headed out for lunch as it was already past noon. Everyone had warmed up and was ready for a good meal. The Park headquarters canteen we stopped at. I had fried noodles with shrimp for 30 baht.

The Park HQ

Park HQ Canteen

Uncle David and Uncle Lum preferred to be different this time. Instead of ordering single dishes like the rest of us did, they ordered a menu of dishes - rice with separate dishes of fried fish and vegetables.

After lunch, Susan brought us to a scenic trail for our afternoon sortie - the Kew Mae Pan. There was a ruling which stated anyone who entered the trail had to be accompanied by a local guide and there was an entrance fee of 20 baht per person. But for groups, there should be a maximum of 10 people with a fee of 200 baht. Since there were 11 of us, all of them unanimously agreed that I needn't pay my part as it would prove too complicated but of course with the excuse that I was still a 'juvenile.' Alright. Thank you!

Kew Mae Pan trail map
The trail is 3km long - the first kilometre being a rather gentle ascend, the second mainly trekking along the summit and the third is the most trying of all!

A waterfall along the first stretch of the trail.
All of us stopped for a group photo as there was a convenient platform for everyone to crowd on.

Again, the forest here captivated me. There was the evergreen forest, cloud forest and montane forest to name some but I am just so astounded by the sight of the plant life here!

Still along the first kilometre, Uncle Alagan spots something creeping up a tree - more of jumping, perhaps. Jason takes a look at it - a Brown-throated Treecreeper! There goes another rush for the agile bird which kept gliding from one tree to another. It would start from the base of a tree, skip all the way to the top, choose another trunk and glide to its target and 'stick' to it! It reminded me of the flying lizard whenever it switches trees - the way it glides and flops upon the tree trunk!

Brown-throated Treecreeper
Can you see it? Rather camouflaged, really. Not an award-winning shot, I know, but something I can be proud of!

Further on, suddenly Jason and Kim who are in front of me stop dead in their tracks. I see a blur flying low across the path into the undergrowth. Everyone becomes hushed. Jason turns back and whispers hoarsely, "Partridge!"

My heart leapt into my mouth as I crept forward. We started peering into the bushes. A movement to the right of the trail. There they were! A pair of Rufous-throated Partridges were foraging about 10 metres away and just hidden by all the foliage. Their backs were towards us but when one raised its head and looked over its shoulder, I had a clear view of the rufous throat. I was elated! Not daring to breathe even, for fear I would be heard. I even had to tread carefully so as not to break a twig as even that might startle these shy birds.

They stayed for about 5 minutes before we lost sight of them. But it was worth it! Never did any of us expect to see them here. It was a marvellous bonus for me!

For the rest of the trek, there were few other sightings. But the highlight of this trail is the scenery when one steps out of the shades of the forest into the golden hues of the alpine savanna. The transition is immediate as the forest ends abruptly at the edge of the savanna. It was a cloudless sky with no hint of mist at all, so the view here was astounding.

The Alpine Savanna

Everyone enthralled by the scenery
Please do pardon me for my awe and enthusiasm! I have always been a frog living underneath a coconut shell, so this is a whole new eye-opening (sorry for the over-used cliche) experience!

Uncle B and Uncle Lum who had already reached the summit while most of us were still stuck snapping endless shots of anything we could

The Summit of Kew Mae Pan
On such a clear day, you can see the expanse whole valley plus far into the horizon beyond.
Pictures just fail to capture the moment and everything associated with it, but they're much better than I can ask for!

Descent
For those who have a certain fear of heights, just keep looking straight! Not over the edge.

Goral habitat area
(a Goral is a species of mountain goat which inhabits these vertical slopes - they are known to nimbly manoeuver along the bare rocks and have been sighted by a lucky person or two)

Hello there! They're still at the beginning. This was taken when I was at the opposite ridge as it sort of curves round in the shape of a horseshoe.

During the descent, I was walking along a path only a foot wide where on my right is an almost vertical drop. In most areas, the drop is a meadow of shrubs but in certain patches, its rock and sand! Along some stretches, the shrubs growing right at the edge of the path are tall and firm enough to act as a somewhat natural fence. You can tell which corners are a tad more tricky as simple makeshift railings have been put up.

As I walked along this ridge, I just couldn't help stopping every 10 steps or so to view the scenery from a slightly different angle. My camera just kept on clicking but I just couldn't get enough!

A Rhododendron tree growing precariously on the precipice

Beautiful Rhododendrons
Don't ever think of reaching out to pick them!

The trail plods for about a kilometre through this alpine savanna, after which you enter the forest again. As it was scorching hot outside due to the high altitude (I must have absorbed enough ultra-violet rays to fluoresce in the dark!), it was a relief to be back under the cool shades of the trees. How ungrateful I am for the weather - in the morning I say it's too cold, now it's too warm and I can't wait to be back in the forest?

For this last leg of the trail, I followed Uncle B in heading out. It was tiring! Up and down and up and down. Every time we went down, oh no, we thought, there would surely be a path headed up again! It couldn't be more true. Many small valleys we crossed. Same pattern as we huffed and puffed over countless hills. The path would wind down into a small valley where we would have to cross a small stream, and then before us rose a steep flight of steps up a merciless slope!

By the time we got out, the others had been left far behind and it was evening already. Having to wait for the rest, the hung around the entrance to catch our breath. But not for long, either, for a few late shows popped up around us. Feeling as if my legs were soft like jelly could not prevent me from grabbing my gear to go after these few. Uncle B, too, had a go, with excellent rewards of the Black-backed Sibia and some Warblers.

Black-backed Sibia

Chestnut-tailed Minla
A flock of these turned up, hawking for moths, but Uncle B did not heed them as he already had a stunning shot from the Ang Ka trail. So, I just did what I could, then.

The others trickled out of the trail by 6pm local time. Susan came out, hopeful for a bowl of papaya salad at the stalls around the car park but they had already closed. Most had a light snack or a drink as they were still available.

We popped over at Mr Deang's farm for awhile to try our luck with any Bushchats. All we got was a lone Red-whiskered Bulbul as it was getting dark and we were all tired.

Back to EGAT it was for a good shower. Dinner was an affair of pork tomyam, sweet and sour tilapia, spinach and mixed vegetables - broccoli, cucumber and snow peas to name some.

By 10.30 p.m., my bed was calling out for me!

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