Sandakan 2011 - #04 One Last Quick Look Around Bilit

We finally had our breakfast at 10am in the morning. Most of the other guests who had arrived the previous day were starting to check-out, so we were the only ones left at the restaurant. The skies threatened to drizzle. Despite that, I persevered and went off with my umbrella and equipment once more to have a last look around Bilit Rainforest Lodge as I didn't really have a chance to do any proper birding there.

I have this habit of photographing almost everything I eat outside of home.

The cherry tree behind the restaurant seemed active. The same male Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma dayakanum was there, busy gorging itself on the fruits, even the green ones. It would perch on a branch opposite a fruit it was interested in, then peck bit by bit of the fruit off. I like to watch how its beak moves when it's processing each bite of the fruit. It's so rapid and well-controlled that it's fascinating!

"I spy with my little eye..."

Chomp!

An Ashy Tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps borneoensis was calling loudly and hopping around nearby but it was too fast for me. A small flock of Eurasian Tree-Sparrows Passer montanus malaccensis were frolicking about too. Since there wasn't anything else to photograph, and also because it was in a natural setting, I had fun snapping away.

Though almost always overlooked for being so common, this one was just too pretty.

On the way back to our chalet, a male Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja siparaja visited the flowering trees briefly but posed no opportunities for me. Not far off the ground, I was a little surprised to see a Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus lucionensis perched quietly. It is rather late in going home, as with the Egrets. But considering the recent catastrophes up north, I can see why it's still around!

The dragonfly in the centre of the photo did not seem to worry for its life being so close to the Shrike!

As I was engrossed with the Shrike, I happened to see a male Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis borneensis flying up to a tree at my eye level. I took a few hurried shots of it and dashed back to grab the digiscoping gear. My mum had already kept the camera so I dug it out and assembled it as fast as I could, knowing that Sunbirds do not stay for long! My dad helped carry the fieldscope to where I left my camera and I then took over. Thankfully the bird was still there, giving itself a good preen. I didn't quite like the lighting though, as the bird - being smart - chose a shady perch while the background was bright. But anyhow I stayed there for as long as the bird remained.

It's not often that a Sunbird can be digiscoped.

Sadly, it was getting late and I had to hurry back to pack. I was so torn to pack my gear for fear that something else might show up, which isn't uncommon. So I rushed to pack everything else and left my camera for last. Thank goodness for this as a male Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker Prionochilus xanthopygius came to say goodbye right in front of our chalet. It looks so much like the Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker Prionochilus percussus, but as the name implies, this had a bright yellow rump with only a faint reddish spot on its breast.

Its feathers look rather worn, or else a distinct white pectoral tuft should be visible too.

It was really time to go by then. A light drizzle seemed to be hurrying us off to our next destination. The boat ride across the river was again a wet and spray-ful one. So, goodbye Bilit! It was a short but sweet experience indeed. I still want to explore more of this place as I'm sure there are surprises lurking around the corner. I'll definitely be back one day for the Bornean Ground-Cuckoo Carpococcyx radiatus. I hope you're ready.

Sandakan 2011 - #03 A Morning On The Kinabatangan

As the sun rises earlier at one of the Eaternmost areas of Malaysia, up we were at 5 in the morning, the cockerels already beginning their morning call. We trundled down to the restaurant for a quick coffee and headed down to the jetty where our boatman was waiting for us. The skies were still cloudy and grey when we set off down the Kinabatangan River before 6.30am.

Looking forward to a bright morning.

Oh, the feeling of the chilly morning wind against my face was lovely. The river water was still a light brown shade but the level had gone down since the rain stopped the previous evening. The forest lined both riverbanks about 150metres across just beyond a thick boundary of elephant grass. I kept praying that the weather would be kind to us this morning!

Our boat had several rows of pairs of bucket seats and we were accompanied by not just a boatman but also a local guide. They were very helpful indeed whenever we spotted something and wanted to get nearer for identification and photographic purposes. The boat had both a diesel motor which was used for long-distance travelling and also a more silent electric motor for more delicate negotiating and manoeuvring. What I liked most about this boat was that it was stable and there was minimal splash, enabling us to remain high and dry throughout the entire trip. More importantly was that our equipment wouldn’t get wet!

One of our first sightings was a pair of Storm’s Storks Ciconia stormi flying directly overhead. Being still so early in the morning, it didn’t occur to me to remove my camera from the tripod and my tripod was also fixed too low. We were lucky that we saw 3 more storks perching further downstream. Although lighting was not much improved, it was much easier especially when our boatman cut off the engine and we came to an almost complete halt.

Still far, far away. The third was hidden from this view.

The next bird which caught our attention was a raptor. As the light was still dim, getting a good shot was challenging. After a while we concluded that it was a Wallace’s Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nanus nanus. The leg feathers completely covered the tarsals and there were multiple tail bands. A short, sharp crest stood stiff and erect at the top of its head. It did not seem bothered to fly away even though we got quite close to it, probably because its wings were still wet from yesterday. We saw around two more of this species along the river. I like the way the crest sticks out, the feathers are usually separated from each other and makes it look rather cute!

Look at the crest!

Not far away on the opposite side, I spotted a colourful thing perched on a solitary bare tree partially submerged in the river. As we drew closer, I made it out to be a Black-and-Red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhyncos macrorhyncos and it flew to a mass of dried twigs on the same tree. A nest! We didn’t proceed nearer as to not disturb it and continued our journey.

Nest above the water. I'll bet it has a nice view. Unless the river floods.

Keeping a good watch.

Along the riverbanks, a mixture of breeding and non-breeding plumage Great Egrets Ardea alba pranced gracefully with their long slender necks held high above the water. The birds in breeding plumage looked stunning indeed with their jet black bills, red legs and bright cyan facial skin. Little Egrets Egretta garzetta garzetta were slightly less common and most of them were also ready for courtship.

Love the composition. And the plumes.

Another in transition to breeding plumage.

The grace of an Egret is not easy to translate into pictures.

Other notable species that we saw were a pair of Pink-necked Green Pigeons Treron vernans, a pair of Little Green Pigeons Treron olax, a pair of Crested Serpent Eagles Spilornis cheela pallidus and abundant numbers of Slender-billed Crows Corvus enca compilator. Here in East Malaysia, the Slender-bills are far commoner than the Southern Jungle Crows Corvus macrorhynchus and House Crows Corvus splendens. The opposite is also true in West Malaysia.

Purple Herons Ardea purpurea manilensis would fly over every now and then and once a lone Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax also flew past.

It was this lone Lesser Fish-Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis humilis which gave us a pleasant surprise. Normally, this species and also the Grey-headed Fish-Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus are superbly skittish and are so sensitive to the slightest movement we make. The moment its eagle eyes spot a single strand of hair moving, whoosh! Off they go! But this bird that we saw today couldn't care less if we were a troupe of monkeys using loudspeakers. Alright I might have over-exaggerated, but it just illustrates how different this one behaved.

The most cooperative bird throughout our entire trip!

When I first spotted it perched on a fern-covered tree, we were excited but took a very slow and cautious approach, for fear that we might spook it. Our boatman even used the electric motor to cut down the amount of noise we made. But after hanging about almost directly at the base of the tree for more than 5 minutes, it just continued standing there looking down on us. Our cameras didn't stop clicking from the moment we saw it until then. In fact, we had to give up shooting it when we found no better angle. Even our guide and boatman were surprised as they too had never seen this species stay for this long. And to top it all off, on our way back, it was still there!

On the next leg of our journey, we had magnificent views of a pair of Stork-billed Kingfishers Pelargopsis capensis cyanopteryx. Being a different subspecies from the one we get in Peninsular Malaysia (P.c.malaccensis), the first thing that struck me was how bright this one appeared. The crown of this subspecies is a buffish orange with only a slight tinge of dull brown towards the forehead, unlike the other which has a whole head of dull brown

Calling and fanning its wings and tail - to stake its territory and to attract a mate.

These Kingfishers were calling and displaying profusely from the top of a bare tree before coming lower to hunt. As the sun had finally made an appearance, the effect of the sun's rays hitting these magnificent birds was just breathtaking. They stood out like glowing embers in the morning sun. One of them was very obliging and allowed us stunning views at a pretty close range. Our guide was again astonished at how cooperative this bird was as this species apparently rarely stops for such wonderful views.

As beautiful as amber.

Not much further down, we entered the Ox-Bow Lake. To access the lake, we had to pass through a small inlet where there are warning signs of crocodiles along the banks. The trees hung over both sides of the inlet and their canopies formed an arch above us. At some points we even had to duck our heads to avoid the low branches. I relished every moment of this serenity and wished that more people could appreciate such beauty.

The calm and peaceful inlet into the lake.

The beginning of the Ox-Bow.

The main highlight of the Ox-Bow Lake was a fruiting fig tree with a large flock of Green Imperial-Pigeons Ducula aenea polia and at least a pair of Rhinoceros Hornbills Buceros rhinoceros borneoensis (an adult female and a young male). The birds kept very well hidden and so we waited patiently for one to alight fleetingly on an exposed branch. Suddenly, a Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus microstictus appeared out of the blue, zoning in onto the fruiting tree and dove in, causing a big ruckus and explosion of Pigeons scurrying away. The Hornbills were nowhere to be seen.

Having a good feast.

However, this proved to be a blessing in disguise for us (despite it probably being a brush with death for the Pigeons) as they flew right over our heads to perch on a bare tree on the opposite side. The sun was in the right direction, bringing out their metallic green wings to full glory. It was just splendid.

Such a pity its right wing was cropped off.

To bask in the sun after escaping a near fatal fate.

It was about 9am by the time we finished. As we hadn't had our breakfast yet, we decided to head back. The best part of the journey back was a Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus, spotted by our boatman's keen eyes. It was basking in the shallows and it looked like it just had a good meal. When we tried to approach it, it slipped slowly into deeper waters, keeping only its eyes and nostrils visible.

"Never smile at a crocodile..."

We also said goodbye to our Lesser Fish-Eagle friend still solemnly watching over the river.

We couldn't have asked for more after such a wonderful morning with sufficiently kind weather. There weren't as many things to see already, partly also because we were so satisfied that we didn't really bother looking out for more. The sun disappeared behind the clouds as though closing the curtains on a great show and the sky turned gloomy again.

Back from a cruise not to be forgotten. It was worth every single minute!

Sandakan 2011 - #02 Bilit Rainforest Lodge

I practically slept throughout the whole journey to Bilit as there wasn't much I could see through the window. By the time I was jolted awake by the van maneuvering through deep muddy ruts in the road, the rain had reduced to a light drizzle. On both sides of the road, the forest floor was flooded.

I think this was what woke me up.

Upon reaching a small village, the van stopped and we transferred all our luggage to a motorboat which would bring us to the Bilit Rainforest Lodge (BRL). I think even the floating platform below the jetty was damaged by the rising water levels but they made a makeshift bridge for us to get into the boat.

First view of the Kinabatangan.

The boatmen provided ponchos for all of us but as we already had our own raincoats on we used them to line our seats instead. Some were also used to cover the bags. I looked out at the Kinabatangan River before me and saw this wide expanse of milk tea-coloured water which was currently very much swollen. Once the boat started down the river, the drizzle turned into a cold, sharp spray and I had to struggle to keep my hood on while straining to keep my eyes open to look around me.

We went downstream and across the river for several hundred metres in less than 5 minutes. Another covered floating platform, this one escaped any damage, awaited us as I finally beheld our first destination. We're here!

Right upon arrival at the reception, they welcomed us with a drink of cold Ribena, served with a little parasol and slice of watermelon skin. I had hardly finished my drink when I saw this male Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis borneensis perched on a low tree right in front of me. Oh how I dashed to get my gear out which was packed and buried so tightly to keep dry! It actually stayed for quite awhile but alas I was still too slow and my lenses were all fogged up. One endemic subspecies for me already!

Welcome to Bilit!

Checking-in at BRL.

BRL Restaurant. We spent most of the day here. Eating.

Some dishes in the buffet lunch. We were rather ravenous.

We were well fed!

I think BRL offers at lest 15 rooms, but I'm not sure as some of the chalets are split into two so there might be more. The chalet we stayed in could accommodate 5 people with 2 queen sized beds and 1 single bed. The washrooms are separated - one with just a toilet and another is the shower. Clean and comfortable - I like it.

The whole resort is fully connected by a wooden boardwalk and this is very useful indeed especially when it rains as the whole place can flood when the Kinabatangan bursts its banks. It's also good for us birders and photographers as we have a slightly higher vantage point! The boardwalk connecting the chalets forms a loop and so most of the birds I saw were in the trees in the middle of this loop. It was convenient to birdwatch from our balcony as it looked out directly into the trees in the middle. The older chalets on the right side of the loop are not so ideal for birdwatching as their balconies face each other. So even in the rain, I could stand at the steps of the balcony and look outside for anything that passed by.

The map is slightly distorted as the chalets on the left are only on the left and do not extend to the back.  The boardwalk continues as the jungle trail on the left corner, not the right.

The boardwalk from the jetty to the reception and on to the chalets.

These are the chalets on the left. We stayed somewhere around here.

It seemed to have stop raining awhile. I heard a Woodpecker calling nearby and even as I was showering a Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus threnodes was calling just outside the bathroom. I was just about to go look for the woodpecker when a movement outside our chalet distracted me. It was a Black-and-Yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus. No, a pair of them! This time I was more prepared and managed a few shots of them. It didn't take long for me to realize that these two were looking for a suitable nesting site as they kept perching on typical branches that Broadbills use for nests.

I'm always fascinated by this Broadbill and its colour scheme!

"Do you think this is suitable?"

Then the rain started again. Despite that, a small flock of Brown Barbets Calorhamphus fuliginosus tertius came to visit us. They look so pretty with their rusty wash across the breast.

High speed power drill mode on!

Several Red-eyed Bulbuls Pycnonotus brunneus brunneus were also hanging around the area. A couple of Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrots Loriculus galgulus galgulus flew overhead. The first time I saw the common Yellow-vented Bulbuls Pycnonotus goiavier gourdini, I just brushed them aside. But when I soon went to check the field guide, I found that they too were a different and endemic subspecies! So I then vowed to not take any bird for granted.

Earlier when we checked-in, they informed us to meet at the restaurant for tea at 3.30pm and then leave for our scheduled Kinabatangan River Cruise. However when the time came, it was raining heavily and we decided to call it off as it just wasn't worth stepping out into the rain to get our equipment wet. Other groups who were on package tours braved the weather and went anyway, covered head to toe in their ponchos. We on the other hand just went for tea.

Yet another meal within a few hours!

There is a Computer Room just beside the restaurant and since it was still pouring outside my mum and I whiled away time there. We checked BBC Weather and it didn't look good at all. Looks like this trip was going to be a washout.

I then decided to slowly head back to our chalet, juggling an umbrella in one hand and my gear in the other. Just outside the restaurant there are the same cherry(?) trees as those found in Merapoh. A male Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma dayakanum visited the tree briefly but my shots were poor. Further down the boardwalk, a small flock of Dusky Munias Lonchura fuscans were flying about in the grass but they were too far for me.

A rather poor shot of this active little bird.

I continued by taking the long way back to the chalet. A group of Japanese children did not seem to mind the rain at all as they happily ran about without any umbrellas or raincoats. They were wet through! I simply couldn't afford to do the same although it looked temptingly fun.

The rest of the way was quiet until I reached the back part of the loop which looked out into the forest where a large greyish-brown bird with white wing patterns flew silently and low at the forest edge. I tried searching for it and managed to find it in a tree, its face hidden from sight. It then flew off again and I tried to follow it but never saw it again. After checking the photos it turned out to be a Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela pallidus.

Such a pity it hid its face.

My mum met up with me and we headed to the end of the boardwalk where a forest trail continued from it to the ox-bow lake. We didn't step off the boardwalk as the ground was too wet. A Babbler was calling rather loudly and so we tried to call it out using playback. Within seconds it responded and revealed itself to be a White-chested Babbler Trichastoma rostratum macropterum. It kept flying in circles around us, over and under the boardwalk, but it was also very wary and did not stay long on each perch. We decided to stop so as not to confuse it further.

Even with the flash, this was about the most decent shot.

It was getting dark so we went back to get ready for dinner. After a good meal, we took a walk around the lodge as the rain had finally stopped. We found many tiny frogs/toads about 2-3cm long. They seemed to like the Heliconia spp. patches. Other creatures we found were a beautiful orange cricket, slugs and a milipede. There were also bats flying around, the common house gecko and a small cute white-and-buff little rodent which ran so fast up the tree!

Thank goodness we were only there for a night!

Any idea what this species is? They were almost everywhere.

It has metallic blue and green spots on its body and legs. Beautiful.

It wasn't that late by the time we got back but we were all still worn out from the long journey. So off to bed and hopefully the weather'll be kind to us the next morning!

The end to a long and rainy day.